Heating (interior) and Overheating (engine) Issues...Need Help!

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Troy NY
#1
I've read the post "No heat when stopped at lights...", and I have a very similar situation - However, I do NOT have the digital temperature control, which is why I am posting about this issue again. Here's my story....

I have a 1993 BMW E36 Sport Edition (w/ Manual Tranny). 175k, new transmission last winter, great running condition. I BABY this car!

My E36 heating system has been acting rather quirky lately. If I'm driving at highway speeds (accelerating in 3rd or 4th - it's a manual tranny - the engine temperature gauge on the dash goes ALL THE WAY UP to the "overheating" range where the orange warning light comes on. However, I know for a fact that the engine isn't overheating (the problem is easily remedied, either by turning on/turning off the defroster, or by shifting into 5th gear (if in 4th). Also, my heating system doesn't seem to be working correctly. Even after the car has warmed up (engine-wise), the system still blows cold air in my face - usually until I'm cruising at highway speed in 5th gear (there seems to be something about 5th gear that fixes these problems - odd!).

In terms of the "overheating" issue, I'm assuming that I have a faulty thermostat sensor - if such a part exists? In terms of the heating system (or lack thereof), I don't know what to think (I'm not too familiar with the internal components. The most info I can give is that it takes a WHILE to even work, and then it usually only works "correctly" and blows hot air when in 5th gear. If I'm just idling at a stoplight, it blows cold air at me. Any advice/thoughts/insight would be greatly appreciated! Thanks and have a great day! [:)]
 
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Troy NY
#3
How do I get the air out of the system? Is there any way to "bleed" it? Should I just blast the AC for a while?

What should I reasonably expect to pay for the thermostat and installation?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
 
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Chicago, IL
#4
Go get a coolant flush and when they do that they put in a new Thermostat with it. I don't own a BMW but when I did an oil change and coolant flush on my truck it cost me $100 at a shop by my house. BTW thought I don't know if that would fix your problem or not.

Heres a pic of a thermostat incase your wondering


Also the bleed procedure I am not sure of for your car but sometimes there are procedures and sometimes not.

Good luck
 
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Troy NY
#5
I just checked BavAuto and the thermostat/related parts are pretty cheap!

However, I just bought some 50/50 coolant/antifreeze tonight and put some of that in the system. I haven't driven the car for an extended period of time (on the highway) since adding the stuff, but I DID drive it in stop and go driving conditions. The temperature indicator gauge stayed in it's normal position (right in the middle).

Maybe this Prestone 50/50 stuff solved the problem?
 
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Chicago, IL
#6
MikeB325i said:
I just checked BavAuto and the thermostat/related parts are pretty cheap!

However, I just bought some 50/50 coolant/antifreeze tonight and put some of that in the system. I haven't driven the car for an extended period of time (on the highway) since adding the stuff, but I DID drive it in stop and go driving conditions. The temperature indicator gauge stayed in it's normal position (right in the middle).

Maybe this Prestone 50/50 stuff solved the problem?
Did you put in the new thermo? If so then maybe it was the answer to your problem, nice to hear your car is running right again. [^]
 

Brian48

New Member
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Connecticut
#7
A little help here

I got about the same problem, more or less, in 10 degree weather the heater started blowing cold air, and about 3 miles later the temp gage was in the red .
Hoses were hard and hot??
Pulled the thermostat, seems to be fine in hot water?????? No leakage??

any thoughts..
 
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Reading,PA
#8
I'm thinking air in the system, or broken impeller blades on the water pump. If it is an older or original water pump with the plastic impeller (crap), you'll see problems like this.
 

Brian48

New Member
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Connecticut
#9
it is a 94 with just about 83,000 on it and until that moment run great... I did do the thermo in March of 04 but other than that.... no even sure where the water pump is in there...
 
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Troy NY
#12
Well, I topped off the radiator tank today with some more of the Prestone 50/50 stuff, because the car was starting to run hot again (according to the temperature gauge). I was in stop and go conditions for about 10 mins, and then driving on the highway for about 10 mins...Nothing too straining on the system - or so I thought....

The entire time, the temperature gauge was "in the red" (at the highest possible point), yet I was getting no heat. I turned the heat off, and then turned it back on a few minutes later. As soon as I turned it on, I heard a loud "pop" sound from under the hood, and immediately there was smoke/steam EVERYWHERE...coming out the hood, and coming through the heating vent, into the car.

I pulled onto the shoulder, popped the hood, and the smoke/steam was coming from the driver's side, right near the fuse box (right in front of the steering wheel). I don't know what the hell broke, but I'm hoping I didn't just RUIN my Bimmer.

I did start it back up, and it ran fine (I was sooo fed up, I was gonna go find the nearest guardrail/tree and do something VERY stupid so I could just collect an insurance check). Thank God my Dad had just showed up to help, and he managed to stop me.

I'm so screwed right now...Last Thursday, I got robbed of $3000 trying to buy a '98 5-series that had a "For Sale" sign with a price of $4,000 on it. I brought 3,000 in cash with me, took it for a test drive (it drove beautifully) and the next thing I knew, I had a handgun to my temple. The nice black gentleman emptied my pocket of the $3000 bankroll, and I got out and RAN at the next red light. I DID get the plate number - and big surprise - the car was stolen.

If it seems too good to be true, it DEF. is. I was thinking "holy sh1t, I just found a '98 5-series for $4,000!!! I can flip this car for $10k and make $6,000 in a day!".

I lost almost every penny I owned, and I almost lost my life.

And now a week later, my Bimmer is DEAD.

I've never been so screwed financially, EVER. When it rains, it pours I guess. I have $800 to my name, $600 in CC bills due, $125 in insurance bills due, and wrote a $400 rent check yesterday. It's safe to say my Bimmer days are over. Once the car is fixed, I'm going to NEED to sell it.

If anyone is interested, or has a grand or so they can donate to my cause, please let me know. I'm in quite the hole...I feel like crawling up in a ball in my closet and just crying. [:(]

Thank God for Xanax.
 
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Troy NY
#13
just got a call from the shop, and they said the car has a broken heater valve. They said after labor, it will be about $400. But after I explained how the car had been acting for the past month or so, they said something else could definitely be wrong, and that they wouldn't be able to tell until they replace the heater valve.

I'm thinking that when I turned on the heat yesterday and heard that "pop" under the hood, it was my heater valve breaking. If that's the case, I'm figuring a new heater valve won't solve whatever the original problem was/is. Then again, I'm no car expert and I could be wrong. I really hope I AM wrong - and that a new heater valve will fix the problem...But I'm not getting my hopes up.

Could a cracked/broken heater valve cause the symptoms my car was having (running hot, no heat, and the car ultimately "overheating" and bellowing out steam/smoke yesterday)? Or does this sound like a small part of a bigger problem? Thanks for any advice!
 
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Chicago, IL
#14
I dont' know what it sounds like but good luck with it and man your right when it rains it pours and I haven't been that badly poured over but man it does suck when it happens.
 

Brian48

New Member
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Location
Connecticut
#15
and part 2: waterpump in, bleed off the system, running good for about a week. went to work, heater working fine on the way but on the return trip got cold air? temp gage right where it is supposed to be, checked the fluid level this morning and it is down about an inch and a half from the cold line...
top and bleed off??????

any thoughts?

how come the heater never messed up in the nice weather....always has to be in the winter.
 
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my fighting hole
#16
The heater solenoid is bad. New one is a little under $150 and it's something you can change yourself. Location: facing the engine from the front of the car, look at the brake master cylinder. the part is located at the lower left of the brake master cylinder with 3 hoses coming out of it. Same thing happened to me right around your milege and that was the problem.
 


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